March 15: A Ponga in Tonga

A ponga in Tonga,  A tiger in Niger, a weka in Topeka, a fern in Lucerne...

Yes, these are the word games that arise whilst travelling with a professional language person. Game over when we tried for ten minutes to do " a pohutakawa in..."...

The night in the 1881 schoolhouse turned YHA hostel was an echo-echoey one, given the 15' high rooms, no insulation and a gaggle of young travellers, plus the resident chicken, who proudly strolled thru at will. We meet Tom, a fit Brit cycle tourer, heading west and hear of his plans to relocate to NZ, looking for the job, lady and the other important things in between. Then out of the Green Mussel Cap of NZ, turning off the main roads and steering toward the Queen Charlette Sounds to the north. No wind today and our first climb yields wonderful views both back over Havelock and its tiny harbor full of boats (400 population and 400 boats) and north up the Kaiuma Bay, southernmost arm of Pelorus Sound. The almost calm waters shine in the morning sun and the occasional boat leaves an gentle, expanding ripple pattern that traces from shore to shore.

Down we plunge, along shoulderless roads, winding between cliff cuts and a jungley drop to the sound. The unique ponga fern tree is everywhere. Also called the silver fern, trees grow to 20 feet and splay a burst of fronds. (The Ponga is also the mascot of the NZ women's sports teams. At least they are not the "green mussels") At Linkwater, we turn north again. Few vehicles and the road becomes ungraded, with steep inclines and quick drops. A long drop negates all our climbing sweats and plops us at Ohingaroa Bay. Six more miles of ups and downs brings us to Te Mahia Lodge on a miniature bay. Only 20 miles today, but we are flamed. 

Te Mahia lodge is a rustic joint: older construction (floors off level by 2", my eye says) but our Pepto-Bismol colored suite is just perfect for two pooped cyclists, and the bay pouring in the window ain't bad either!

We round up some dinner ingredients and the daily bottle of Sauvignon Blanc, and dine to the tune of low grey clouds creeping across the sound, bringing a light rain.