February 23: The Kitt-ong of Tokomaru

Finally, finally we are able to get on the road early and the blessed 7:30am cool is such a welcome. But all morning, I am wondering what happens if one is on a bicycle shooting down a hill and the earth quakes below you? Hmm... glad I'm safe.

Midday sees us at Tokomaru Bay which, without doubt, is the most beautifully set beach on our trip to date. 500m high headlands shelter this 3 km arc of beachfront and have created a surfer's paradise. But the town is a shuttered, peeling shadow of more affluent days. As has happened so many times in history to regions as commerce routes alter, the building of a decent, driveable East Cape roadway killed the once thriving ports that at one time shipped stock animals, wool and fish products to the world. There remains a general store/petrol station, a takeaway shop,a backpackers hostel and handfull of residences set amongst the Norfolk pines, beeches and endless seabirds. Oh yes, and one little kitten that Ellen came upon...(=delay of trip)

More steep ups and downs (see Feb 22 blog for blow by blow of cycling the bloody hills) and the oil is down a quart by the time we hit the flats and the predictable headwind that greets cyclists as they reach the coast. We find a room in the quaint Tolaga Bay Inn, a massive structure of 1930's vintage, sorely underused and undermaintained, and for sale. But they have a well stocked bar, which we avail ourselves of right off. Dinner is steaks, chips, salad, eggs, and more beers. I've never seen Ellen eat so much, and Gary's plate is bigger. We watch many hours of earthquake updates.

48 miles